Your eating life in San Juan del Sur will quickly fall into an agreeable rhythm. Breakfast could start under an open air rancho, in an all-day breakfast spot on the sand, or street-style in the market - with huge fruit platters, gallo pinto (rice and beans) huevos rancheros (eggs with tomato salsa, tortillas and sour cream) and perhaps even a nacatamal (Nicaragua's version of the tamale).

Then at lunch you may find yourself using the one Spanish word that you need to know in order to dine well in San Juan del Sur: mariscos (seafood). Most of the fish is caught directly off shore and served with a refreshing simplicity - local chefs not feeling the need to add any cliched MasterChef flourishes.

As the shadows start to lengthen, happy hour spots open to showcase the giant sunsets San Juan del Sur is so famous for. Do as the locals do and order a bottle of Flor de Caña rum, a bucket of ice, a bottle of Coke and a dish of limes. Then it's time to choose between the variety of dinning spots dotted around town and along the beachside malecón. Or just stay where you are and ask to see the menu.